Days 28-30
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Day 28. Sunday,
October 1
We were all up by 4. Jean fixed a wonderful breakfast while I finished
the last packing.
Our goodbys were leisurely, for the sun was taking its
own sweet time.
Finally we began to see its effects, and since the tires
had held their
air I was able to leave by 6:30.
The last major climb of the entire trip would be crossing Tijeras Pass
east of Albuquerque.
Central Avenue headed directly into the rising sun
for several miles,
but early on a Sunday morning there was little traffic
and plenty of
lanes for all east-bound vehicles. Interstate 40 is the main
route, but as
Central merged with the Interstate I noticed an asphalt lane
to the side of
the entry ramp. A woman doing some serious walking
paused and willingly
answered my question. Yes, this lane continues
"forever".
Good news, since New Mexico (as of two years ago) instituted a
bikes-on-the-interstate
policy: OK everywhere except in the big-city
areas. I followed
the biking-jogging-walking lane for about a mile and it
led onto the wide
shoulder of the frontage road. The grade was gentle,
the weather perfect,
and the traffic essentially non-existant. About 20
miles later I
reached the high point of 7000 feet.
On the climb I stopped at roadcuts to examine some of the exposed
geology,
and passed a group of students from the University of New
Mexico on a geology
field trip (they each had their geologist's hammer).
It reminded me
of a Saturday almost exactly 50 years ago when I was a
geology major
at UNM. I was taking Field Geology (a required course
that met every
Saturday) and spent the day in the same area. But I
had just finished
an all-night poker session, had no sleep at all, and
that day was the
longest of my life. I realized that either poker or Field
Geology would
have to go. So I dropped the course and changed my
major to mathematics.
Priorities.
But this time I'd had a good night's sleep. After topping the pass I
had a gentle downhill
with a fair tailwind, and soon passed through the
town of Moriarty.
The frontage road led directly onto the freeway, and I
was relieved to
see no sign that excluded bicycles. The wind picked up,
and my average
speed steadily increased. By 12:30 I was at Clines
Corners, 58 miles
from Albuquerque, and it was decision time.
I could continue on the interstate to Santa Rosa, another 56 miles.
Or, I could turn
southeast and head for Vaughan, which was only
another 44 miles.
The distances to Clovis (my destination for the next
day) were exactly
the same. These two towns were the only ones likely
to have a motel.
I picked up a couple of "Travelers' Discount Coupon"
books, went into
the restaurant, and looked at them before deciding
what to order.
The booklets had a few entries for Santa Rosa but none
for Vaughan. The
tailwind split the angle between the two courses, so
I decided to push
for Santa Rosa.
I didn't see a thing on the menu that looked appealing, so I left the
restaurant, ate
a granola bar and a banana, and rejoined the trucks.
As if to reward
me for my correct decision, the wind shifted slightly and
became a perfect
tailwind. At 22 miles an hour I was biking in dead
air. At this rate
I'd be in Santa Rosa by 4.
Foolishly, I began to play number games. I'm rolling along doing about
20 and pass a
mile marker. Can I reach the next one in three minutes?
Here is a slight
uphill---stand on the pedals to keep that speed above 20!
The next marker
appears 8 seconds ahead of schedule. But there is
another hill,
so push harder. Oops, now I'm 6 seconds behind. Make up
that time!
After 45 minutes I realized that I was undoing all the rest I'd gotten
in the previous
three days, so I forced myself to ignore the cyclecomputers.
I'd recovered
somewhat as I crossed a river
whose name told me that
I was no longer
in the wild country "west of the Pecos". I entered Santa
Rosa in a state
of exhaustion and started looking for orange juice.
The only "big" grocery store in town was about twice the size of your
average 7-11,
the freezer was malfunctioning, and they had no orange
juice. I did buy
a couple of gala apples (79 cents a pound) but when the
clerk told me
I owed $1.29 I asked just how much those two apples
weighed. She said
"Oh, that scale must not be working again", did
some mysterious
adjusting, and modified the price to a more-reasonable
65 cents. My first
experience with business in Santa Rosa.
The American Inn had coupons in both booklets I'd gotten at Clines
Corners: one had
a coupon that gave a rate of $26.95 and the other
gave a rate of
$29.95. I wasn't so tired I couldn't pull out the best coupon,
and the clerk
honored it without question. I checked into a good room,
but I just HAD
to have some orange juice.
The motel clerk said that there were a couple of convenience stores
on down the road.
Actually, it was on UP the road, for there was a
considerable hill
to climb. I struggled up this hill, went in, and found
the frozen juice
case. All they had was frozen grape- and frozen apple-
concentrate. I
biked to another convenience store and they had nothing,
so I returned
for some grape juice. I took the (purple) container to the
clerk who tried
to scan it. He never got a beep, so he went back to the
case and returned
with a (yellow) container of apple concentrate. That
scanned OK, so
he said "That will be $2.03." I demurred: "But you
scanned the apple
juice, and I want grape juice." "But the grape juice
doesn't scan",
he explained. "But," I continued, with a growing feeling
that I was dealing
with someone whose IQ was lower than the temperature
in this air-conditioned
place, "the grape juice only costs $1.29." He
sighed, rolled
his eyes, and said "Then I can't sell it to you, because it
doesn't scan,"
and took the grape juice back to the freezer. Desperate,
dying of thirst,
I gave it one last try: "But the price is marked on the
container." He
now knew he was dealing with either a mental case or
someone hard of
hearing, so tried one last time to explain it all to me:
"I CAN'T SELL
IT TO YOU BECAUSE IT WON'T SCAN."
He was obviously relieved that I must have accepted his explanation
because I left
with no further argument. I returned to my room after an
extra two-miles
of wasted hill-climbing biking and had to drink ice water.
During my search for orange juice I met three cyclists who had stopped
by the side of
the road examining a coupon book. Only one of the three
showed any interest
in talking, with the other two avoiding eye contact.
Perhaps they didn't
speak English. They were looking for the American
Inn, and I directed
them. They had started somewhere on the east coast
and were headed
for Los Angeles. They were carrying very little gear, so
I suspect they
had vehicle support, but they obviously were not interested
in talking.
After showering, doing my chores, and taking a nap I was ready to eat.
Across the street
was a good-looking restaurant. I entered, stopped at
the sign that
said "Please wait to be seated" and followed instructions,
even though there
were plenty of unoccupied tables and booths. Several
people who obviously
worked there walked by me and never said a word.
After five minutes
I left. (I don't think I looked that bad.)
Next I went to a Pizza Hut. I entered just behind a couple, who were
immediately approached
by a waitress. "Two?" she asked. They said
yes, and were
immediately shown to a table. The waitress then went
about her business,
bringing them menus, water, and serving a few other
customers, while
I stood next to the sign that said I was to wait to be
seated. After
three minutes I turned and stepped towards the door. "We'll
be with you in
just a minute" said a man (the manager?) who was talking
on the phone.
I turned and waited. The waitress went about her business,
never giving me
a glance, and even had a few words with the man on the
phone. After three
more minutes I left.
Did I forget to put on my pants? Should I return to the room and look
at myself in the
mirror? Is my leprosy that obvious?
There was one more restaurant within reasonable walking distance, so
I decided to give
it one last try before hauling out the crackers. I entered,
there was a sign
that said "Seat Yourself", so I did. A friendly girl brought
me water and a
menu and, to my relief, gave no sign that she was about
to barf. I had
a big salad, a tasty chicken fried steak, and I took the huge
baked potato back
to the room. The breakfast problem was solved.
Day 29.
Monday, October 2
The coupon for the American Inn said that a "continental breakfast"
was included,
so I went over to the office while it was still dark. The
coffee was fresh,
they had a selection of donuts, and even orange juice (!).
I put my baked
potato in their microwave and had a very satisfying
breakfast.
Also eating breakfast were a couple of men from Toledo who were
on their way to
Las Vegas with their wives (who were still sleeping). They
said they sure
hoped the wind died down today because yesterday their
gas milage was
terrible. (Hey, better you buy more gas than me get a
hernia.) I sympathised
aloud while secretly hoping they'd have to take
out a loan---I
like tailwinds.
There were six bicycles locked to posts outside a couple of the rooms,
but the European
cyclists had not made an appearance by the time I left
at dawn. Have
fun fighting that wind, guys!
Although not as strong as the day before, the wind definitely was
favorable. I headed
south through attractive but desolate country
towards Fort Sumner,
whose main claim to fame is a museum devoted
to Billy the Kid.
In town I stopped for several glasses of iced tea and a
small breakfast
burrito. The highway turned east and my tailwind becamea
crosswind, but
the biking was still pleasant.
It was a flat ride on to Clovis. The highway paralleled a very active
railroad, and
at least 10 trains passed me in each direction. I had about
a 90% success
rate in blowing train whistles. One time the whistle
blew just before
I waved, and I imagined the conversation that had taken
place in the engineer's
cab:
"Hey, there's another of those crazy guys on a bike."
"Yeah. Let's see if we can get him to wave."
"OK." [They blow whistle, I wave, and they break into
hilarious laughter, slapping their thighs and high-fiving.]
Along that desolate stretch, any group of two or more buildings
merits a town
name---Taiban had nothing but a sorry-looking trading
post.
I was glad to reach Clovis after another century day. To my relief,
the scanner in
a convenience store worked just fine, and I then checked
into a good room,
only a couple of hundred feet from a K-Bob's, a
restaurant in
a chain that I've found reliably good.
After the usual move-in activities I had a wonderful feast at K-Bob's
endless salad
bar. The lady who kept the dishes full urged me to finish
off the strawberry
shortcake (there were only about three servings left) so
she could "start
cleaning up". She asked me so nicely that I felt it would
be discourteous
to refuse.
Day 30. Tuesday,
October 3
I had a fitful sleep, because I was behind on my reports and this
knowledge penetrated
my dreams. While on the road I'm usually too
tired to do much
in the evening, preferring to go to sleep around 8:30,
and then work
on the reports when I wake up around 3:30. I'd checked
my e-mail and
sent responses before retiring, but I knew that I'd better
not get too far
behind on the reports.
I awoke and looked at my watch: 5:50. Darn! Too late to do any
writing, since
it would be dawn in an hour and I like to start early. Also,
I just didn't
feel as rested as I should be after a nine-hour sleep. But I
got up, threw
on my still-wet biking clothes, and went over to a small
restaurant next
door that I was relieved to find open. I went in, and
the waitress asked
if I wanted coffee. No, just breakfast, and I'd have
their special:
two eggs and a large pancake.
As I was waiting for my order to be filled I glanced around the empty
restaurant and
my eyes happened to pause on the clock on their wall.
Hmm. They should
get that fixed---it says 2:45. I checked it against
my watch: 6:10.
Then the truth soaked in: I had used the stopwatch
function to time
how long I was connected to AOL the previous evening,
had not exited
the stopwatch mode, and the stopwatch now read 6:10.
Well, I wasn't upset, because I'd just been given a gift of about three
hours. So I finished
my early breakfast, returned to the room, and
worked on my reports
until it was time to leave.
The daytime temperatures had been rising for the past couple of days.
Although cool
in the early morning, by mid-afternoon it was stifling. The
vegetation on
the parched terrain was mostly scrub mesquite, with
occasional fields
of sorgham or stunted cotton.
When I was still a dozen miles from Lubbock I decided to play some
more numbers games
and turned on my GPS. I found that the great-
circle distance
to Miami was 1414 miles, while the great-circle distance
from the Seattle-Tacoma
terminal was 1422 miles. So my trip is
(approximately)
half done.
I had been drinking lots of water, but the constant breathing through
my mouth dried
my throat to the point where I difficulty swallowing. Taking
a swig of water
would relieve it for only a few seconds, so I was very glad
to finally enter
Lubbock. I passed through the center of town, checked
and rejected ("I
might be back") a motel that wanted $35 for a very poor
room, didn't check
a motel that advertised an indoor pool and free shuttle,
got some orange
juice at a supermarket, and headed for the outskirts of
town. To my great
relief I came to another motel that had a very good
room at a reasonable
$32.
Associated with the motel was a small restaurant that had a sign
saying they needed
a cook that could "speak English and Spanish".
In the meantime
the owner (an elderly Hispanic fellow) was the cook.
For supper I had
large amounts of iced tea to accompany a spaghetti
dinner. The spaghetti
was overcooked, but the meatballs were superb.
All in all, a
satisfactory conclusion to another century day.